Although bleaching is very popular in salons, it's not a simple job. After all, the hairdresser needs to know the chemical process very well in order to guarantee the desired color and healthy hair.
But when it comes to very light blondes, such as platinum and white, the difficulty is even greater, as the damage to the hair will also be great. Have you ever experienced any difficulties when lightening your clients' hair? Read on and find out more!
Discoloration and hair damage
The bleaching process happens more or less as follows: the bleaching agent (oxygen from hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide) reacts with the pigment in the hair and removes it through an oxidation reaction, de-characterizing the hair's natural color.
But for this to happen, it is essential that there is a highly alkaline environment, capable of allowing the scales of the hair fiber to open and thus allowing oxygen to penetrate the innermost parts of the hair. This is exactly what bleaching powder does, as it usually contains ammonia or potassium in a persulphate base, which are excellent alkalizing agents.
Every hairdresser knows that hair with open scales is also more sensitive and unhealthy, increasing porosity and the chances of breakage. The longer the bleaching powder is left on the hair, the more it will be sensitized.
And to achieve very light blondes, it is essential that this time is longer so that the hair doesn't turn yellow, which also leads to more intense aggression.
How to bleach safely?
After reading the previous topic, you might be thinking that, in order to achieve very light shades, it's practically impossible not to damage your hair, right? Although there really is a bit of aggression in any bleaching procedure, if the professional follows some basic precautions, this aggression will be lessened. Here are some essential tips.
The right mix
The correct mixture of bleaching powder and oxidizer also influences the number of shades that will be opened up and the health of the hair. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
In addition to reading the labels, the tip is to use a meter or a scale, which help the professional to be more precise with the exact measurements, guaranteeing a better result and greater safety.
If you add more powder than indicated, the result could be hair that is more rubbery, broken or lighter than desired. If you add more oxidizer than recommended, your hair could turn yellow and not lighten enough to achieve the desired shade.
Wick test
It is essential to ensure that the hair can withstand bleaching. First, check the health of the hair, analyzing whether it is porous, brittle or dry.
Next, prepare the powder according to the manufacturer's instructions, but only use a minimal amount to apply to a few strands. It's important to prepare it in the same way as you intend to apply it to the entire length of the hair, including with the same OX.
Then separate a few strands at the top and on the right and left sides and apply the prepared powder. Wait the planned time for the bleaching background and evaluate your hair. If the color you want is not there yet, mark this information down so you know how many hours you will need to bleach the hair.
Once the process is complete, assess the client's hair again, analyzing whether the hair is resistant or very damaged, whether the desired shade of lightening has been achieved, how many hours were needed and so on.
40 volume emulsion
The 40-volume oxidizer is one of the main culprits in making hair too fragile and can even lead to chemical hair loss. That's why you should always do a strand test before opting for this volume.
Many professionals opt for this OX to achieve lighter tones more quickly, but it is essential that the hair is healthy enough to withstand the procedure, which will be more aggressive.
Never be in a hurry when bleaching hair and always book these clients in advance, ensuring excellent service and a professional result.
Size of the strands
They can also influence the final result. Working with thicker strands makes the final color uneven, as some parts of the hair tend to bleach faster than others. So use thinner strands as a precaution.
The way the product is applied can also cause problems. It's best to start by applying it first to the lengths and then to the roots, as they tend to open up more quickly.
Bleaching powder
Removing the bleaching powder prematurely is another problem, as you could leave the client's hair with a yellowish or orange tone that will be difficult to neutralize. That's why it's so important to do a strand test beforehand, so you know exactly how long the powder should act on each hair and avoid leaving an unpleasant tone.
And, of course, it's essential to work with quality products that already contain bluish pigments to avoid the appearance of yellowish or orange tones.
As you've seen, there are many points that can influence the final result of a bleaching process. That's why the more information you have, the better. Quality products also play a very important role in ensuring the beauty and health of your clients' hair.
#Yamá Tip
And did you know that Yamá has 12 types of bleaching powders, one for every hair need, for curly, ammonia-free, chamomile, platinum and pearly hair, among others.
In addition, Yamá's creamy hydrogen peroxide (Oxicreme) contains Alpha Bisabolol, a soothing substance for the scalp, in different volumes and versions.
And finally, if you've overdone it with the bleaching and your strands are very fragile, our Anti-Cracking Complex is perfect for recovering them because it contains natural substances made up of wheat derivatives and silicone with a high conditioning power which guarantee protection, shine and softness, making the strands stronger and more resistant.
Don't forget to stop by our partner store Perfumaria em Casa to check out the offers on bleaching powders and oxy creams!
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